Summertime Rides in the Northern Monongahela

I've been pretty consistent about trailering out for a ride every weekend this summer. As much as I'd like to head out more often, horses are just one of my passions, and I'm happiest when I can balance my interests. Besides, with diesel prices where they are, I'm not as keen on venturing hither, thither, and yon.

I've enjoyed a number of miles in the Seneca Creek trail system since the trail clearing day with USFS in May. Unfortunately, storms have dropped a number of trees on trails that were "clear" a few months ago. The first half mile of Swallow Rock has been particularly hard hit, but hopefully our BCHA folks will get it cleared soon. What's wildest about the summer storms is that between my house and the trailheads I frequent, an EF-1 tornado touched down! Not a common occurrence in WV and even more uncommon over in these parts. Yikes.  

Trail obstructions or no, we've made the best out of the summer and enjoyed our time on trail up there. I'm so fortunate to live so close to this trail system!

I also ventured to the trails on CVNWR once to introduce a new equestrian friend to them. We had a BLAST. K's riding style is a lot like my own, and it's so fun to have found a new friend who likes to both walk and move out on trail. She rides over 1000 miles a year across many states and all four of her horses (two RMH and two gypsies) are incredibly fit. Meeting her in August has been such a bright spot in my summer. 

I told K to lead on this ride in CVNWR because it was her first time there. I wanted her to enjoy the glory of the trails with an unencumbered between the ears view. 

This bridge stood above the water, but one later on was partially under water. Beavers have really shifted the hydrology through here! It's also been nice to have a wet summer after two years of severe drought.

The last few feet of the climb up Cabin Mtn

 Pictures at the top for all!

Gidget sits for a few photos but then always has to come check on me. 

And back down again.

Love riding with someone who takes as many photos as I do!

Grif hates bridges. He always has and we'd worked on it for years, but then he had a very scary experience last summer(ish) and will never forgive bridges again.

I'm grateful he'll follow other horses over. Otherwise, I have to lead him or ford streams.

Tired girls!

After a year of being so chill with minimal to zero sass, Grif was spun up this morning. He was the only short-ears at Johnny Meadows. Sonya has a mule now. When we arrived though, there were three other mules on the high ties. Grif was Very Uncertain about this.

Sonya's mule likes to move OUT at the walk. Standing still is DUMB. 

These dogs are so good!

Excellent summer for foraging. Between this day and another, I foraged over 5# of lionsmane mushrooms. 

Day 1 haul, which I shared with Sonya. 

It makes fabulous "crab" cakes. I also dried a ton to use in various ways later.

Summer Photos

Earlier this summer, my brother's girlfriend wanted to "take photos one evening". The plan was loose, but it essentially was just going to give each of us an opportunity to have photos taken. Each of us spends more time behind the lens vs. in front of it. As a result, we both feel absurdly awkward in front of the lens. 

In a grand effort to be less awkward, I opted to pose with my horses as much as possible for my 15 minutes of time in front of the lens. I still felt really awkward, but focusing on them vs. the camera gave me something to do that wasn't just fussing internally about what I should do with my body. 

The resulting photos that M captured are really lovely. And the experience showed me that I really need to force myself in front of the lens more; something that makes me that uncomfortable is worth poking at and improving upon.

Catching Up: Hay, Horses, & Historical Hijinks

Phew. That backcountry trail guide post has been sitting in a tab for two months as I slowly worked on it. It feels great to have it published!

Let's catch up on things, shall we?

JUNE MILES - I kicked June off with a lovely double-digit mileage ride in the Seneca Creek backcountry. We bopped up Swallow Rock and did a lollipop loop on top of the ridge between Allegheny Mtn Trial, Leading Ridge, and North Prong before heading back down the mountain. It was a fantastic day for all involved. I love that I can head out and do a ride like that without seeing a soul!

PUTTING UP HAY - The next weekend became all about hay when my hay guy called to say my bales would be ready. In recent years, I've made a couple trips throughout the year for bales because he would store them in his much bigger barn. This year, however, his situation has changed and I needed to get all of my bales over a couple of days. WHEW. It was a touch helter skelter making so many trips and working around spotty thunderstorms, but I'm happy to say all of my hay supply is put up and ready for the year ahead.

Admittedly, the thumbs up was at the start of my final trip home before I got that epic flat tire.

STANLEY ON STRIKE - Right around the time I was fetching new bales, Stan did one of his I'm-Sick-of-Hay-and-Will-Only-Eat-Grass boycotts. He doesn't have these boycotts every year, but when he does they usually come earlier in the spring when the grass begins to grow again but isn't fully "in". Stan promptly dropped weight as a result of his choice, which was disappointing after he came out of winter looking the best he has in years. 

Due to the property I lease having minimal pasture, hay is Stan's only choice. He's fortunately tucked into the new hay like a good boy and regained weight, but he hasn't put the weight back on that I'd prefer to see. He doesn't look bad, but he also isn't at a body condition I'm comfortable with for regular riding at his age. He's 25. And I'm not worried, to be honest. I know his health and teeth and diet are all in fabulous condition. But it has led me to make the decision to partially retire him as a riding horse. I'm not saying that he'll never be ridden again, but he's out of the rotation for now. Don't worry, he's not mad about it one little bit. 

Other than super close-up nose selfies, this is basically the only photo of Stan recently. Being a free agent annoyance on a 2 mile ride with a friend. (He loves to cut us off, take the lead, and try to encourage the ridden horses to follow him on his own adventure vs the human-led adventure.)

Q BACK IN ACTION - Q was on "vacation" from late September last year through the winter as a result of a tweak to soft tissue in her left front. I trotted her out and even rode her once or twice as winter transitioned to spring and she was fine, but then she had a bit of a setback around late March. It was not the same lameness as before and brought to question if she'd just had a bad fall in the field rough-housing. Lyme disease was also not ruled out. With my busy April of travel ahead, I opted to just give her some more time off and then pursue more diagnostics in May if things weren't resolved. 

Fortunately, by May, Q was sound again! And has remained so ever since despite my incessant worries otherwise. I've handled her with kid gloves bringing her back into work. I still may pursue a Lyme test on her just to be positive (deer ticks are plentiful here and she's been bitten countless times that I have observed). Regardless, I'm grateful she's feeling better and we are able to enjoy miles again.

HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE - Q was my focus through the beginning of July for all riding. I hadn't reglued Grif's shoes yet, so pursuing miles with him was on hold (he's much happier in shoes than boots or bare on our trails). Other than bringing Q back into work though, I had quite the ulterior motive for getting routine time under saddle with her - we were to participate in a historical reenactment!

On the weekend of July 18, Q and I donned period clothing and delivered the Declaration of Independence as a part of a reenactment weekend. Our role was simple, wait until the appointed time, cross the street, enter the square, deliver the Declaration, and depart. 

Q has always handled odd situations like this with nonchalance, so she was my obvious choice. (Griffin would have noped right out of it, and Stan probably would have grown a hand in height and stood snorting with uncertainty, feet rooted to the ground.) Like the queen she is, Q marched across the street, entered the square with cautious curiosity, walked over to the gentleman who would be reading the Declaration, and halted while I handed it to him. As I passed off the scroll, the drum and fife band struck up another tune following a pause while we had entered the square and made our delivery. Q, who was already alertly observing the drums, stiffened as the noise began. She watched and listened intently for another couple seconds before politely, but determinedly, pivoting and making a stiff-legged walking exit. She was cued up in case those drums and fifes came after her, but was a lady about her exit and held it together.

The Ultimate West Virginia Backcountry Trail Riding Guide*

*for the northern section of the Monongahela National Forest

This post has been a long time coming. I receive so many questions about riding here that it was high time I consolidated some high-level information into one place. I hope you find it helpful!

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I'm fortunate to call West Virginia home. I've adventured deeply into this region of my home state for over three and a half decades. Those experiences have made me someone others often reach out to for advice when planning their own WV adventure. Especially when it comes to equestrian pursuits. And I am more than happy to provide advice and recommendations to people who want to experience this state - especially equestrians. 

During recent interactions with folks from out-of-state, I realized I needed to develop a go-to resource on this blog for backcountry trail riding in this region of WV. A one-stop-shop to share beta on riding trails and access to the area. 

This landscape is beautiful. But it is rugged. Just because someone shares an impressive behind the ears photo doesn't mean that the view was easy to reach. There is a lot of insider-knowledge to safely riding and traveling with horses within this region. It is my goal with this resource to lend some of that knowledge to those who seek it. In doing so, I hope to also foster safer experiences for humans and their equines on these trails. 

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**An important note before the subsequent sections: When I refer to trails as "safe" for horses, I mean it from a sense that the trail provides safe passage without a high risk of life-threatening injury to a horse that is already adept at traveling through rugged, rocky terrain that contains significant changes in elevation. 

If your horse is not already adept at traversing rocky trails ripe with rocks and boulders, stream crossings, mud, stepover logs, and climbing/descending > 1,000+ feet (457+ m) of elevation, you will find many of these trails challenging and may deem them your own version of "unsafe". 

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DOLLY SODS

Of all WV's riding places, I receive the most questions about Dolly Sods. And for good reason, it's absolutely stunning! 

What these photos completely miss is the sheer ruggedness of the terrain in Dolly Sods and the fact that very few of the trails in the Sods provide safe passage for horses. If you're riding the Sods for the first time, carefully study the trail map below and do not hesitate to dismount and/or turn around if you are uncertain about trail conditions. 

TRAILS: Horse-safe trails in Dolly Sods are very limited. I have highlighted safe horse trails on the map below. Be aware that trail markings and signs have been unreliable in the past. Instead, rely on your GPS mileage, the trail map, and topographic maps to navigate effectively if you are unfamiliar with the area. If you choose to ride outside of these areas, do so with extreme caution and the understanding that these trails are not managed for equestrian use. 

The horse-safe trails are highlighted above. The original map can be found HERE.

The stunning views captured in many photos are from the western escarpment of Dolly Sods that overlooks Canaan Valley. This is viewable from Rocky Ridge trail and the Dobbins Slashings property owned by The Nature Conservancy (which prohibits equestrian use as of this writing). Additionally, you can access this view from the top of Cabin Mountain trail on the Canaan Valley Wildlife Refuge property (those trails are discussed more in the next section).

Much of the unique Dolly Sods landscape is rugged and rocky with far too technical of trails for horses to safely without risk of breaking a leg. The ruggedness is a result of the Sods burning for months on end in the early 1900s when cinders from trains transporting timber would catch the land on fire. These fires smoldered in the soil until deep winter snows smothered them out. The fires left little but rocks and ash in their wake; those rocks now have thin layers of soil and vegetation on top that hide the nooks and crannies below. In many areas of the Sods, what looks like "solid" ground is just a thin layer of soil and vegetation atop big rocks that a horse's foot and leg can easily fall through. Where there aren't rocks, there are often bogs and wetlands of indeterminable depth that make horse passage nigh impossible. Not to mention, they're excellent at sucking off hoof protection!

RECOMMENDED SKILLSETS: Horses should be adept at crossing water, walking through mud, traversing technical rocky terrain where they must pick their way from rock to rock, and climbing/descending mountainous terrain. Consider bringing a spare boot in case your horse looses a shoe/boot in a boggy area. Humans should keep in mind that Dolly Sods is a wilderness area that lacks cell service. Strong map-reading and orienteering skills are recommended. Any mishaps requiring emergency aid will be slow to arrive and will arrive on foot - not by motor/machine/wheels (due to the wilderness designation). Weather conditions can change remarkably fast in this unique environment; plan ahead and do your research on forecasted weather patterns and plan accordingly. Also be aware that snow and ice are slow to leave this region and may linger in the Sods longer than other areas.

ACCESS: Fortunately for conservation, but unfortunately for equestrians, access to Dolly Sods has become very challenging in the past year. The Nature Conservancy purchased a piece of property called Dobbins Slashing that provided critical passage for equestrian users from Canaan National Wildlife Refuge trails onto USFS trails in Dolly Sods. The Nature Conservancy does not allow equestrian usage of the Dobbins Slashing property. As a result, equestrians have lost the best access point into Dolly Sods, which previously existed by parking at the end of A-Frame Road and riding up Cabin Mountain trail on the Refuge, traversing the corner of the Dobbins Slashing property, and entering Dolly Sods. 

From this map by TNC, you can see how the Dobbins Slashing property intercepts the CVNR property and USFS Dolly Sods property (in particular, the lower left corner of the property where we previously connected from one system to the other). As of this writing, equestrian travel across Dobbins Slashing is prohibited. This cuts off the easiest equestrian access to the horse-safe trails in Dolly Sods. 

With the loss of this access point, the only remaining access points to ride the Sods would be from Forest Road 19 to Forest Road 75 (also labelled as Brushy Ridge Road on Google Maps) OR from Forest Road 80 off Freeland Road. I say "would be" here because, unfortunately for equestrians traveling with trucks and trailers, neither of these roads is very suitable or friendly to trucks with trailers. Parking and turnaround space for trucks and trailers is essentially nonexistent. If you really want to ride in the Sods and access it from either of these roads, I would recommend scouting them first in a passenger car before making a decision. 

The closest equestrian-friendly camping to Dolly Sods is over an hour away within the Seneca Creek backcountry and is discussed below in the Seneca Creek section. 

MY HONEST, CANDID TAKE: My honest take on riding in the Sods vs other places in WV (and beyond) is that while the landscape is scenic, riding through it is meh. Much of the beauty of the Sods is more easily enjoyed on foot. As a riding area, it ranks lower for me due to the sheer technicality of traversing the rocks, maneuvering around shifting bogs (based on rainfall and beaver activity), navigating countless user groups due to the popularity of the area, and being limited to so few trails within this trail system. If you want that "amazing view" photo, you can easily achieve it by riding to the top extent of Cabin Mountain Trail on Canaan Valley Nat'l Wildlife Refuge snapping your photo, enjoying a picnic, and then heading back down that same trail system. The interior Sods are ecologically impressive to see - don't get me wrong! - but they are much more easily enjoyed on foot.

CANAAN VALLEY NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

Canaan (pronounced "cah-NAYN") Valley National Wildlife Refuge (CVNWR) boasts a lovely trail system with horse trails in the northern part of Canaan Valley. I love riding through these trails not only for the natural beauty afforded, but as a way to enjoy views that are void of human development. It's special to look out across so much undeveloped landscape and imagine how everything once looked like that. Provided the roads are passable (not snow covered), there isn't a bad time to ride out here. It's gorgeous in the spring when all the hues of green are vibrant on the landscape, lush in the summer when the shrubby St. John's wort and golden rod are in bloom, and resplendent in the fall when mother nature takes her paintbrush to the landscape, dusting it in warm hues of red, orange, rust, and gold. 

TRAILS: Trails that permit horses are shared in the descriptions of the trails that accompany the CVNWR trail map (linked below). I've also highlighted the horse trails in the map image below. All of these trails are very horse-friendly. They are not technical at all, with the exception that there are countless bridges. Other than the two trails up Cabin Mountain, these trails also boast very little elevation gain/loss. They're honestly just lovely. Riding on Middle Valley trail is the biggest attraction, as it provides stunning views nearly the whole way. 

Trails where horses are allowed are highlighted above. The original map can be found HERE. 

RECOMMENDED SKILLSETS: Bridge crossings abound on these trails! A horse that is adept at crossing bridges, or confident navigating around them to ford waterways, is required to travel these trails. Other than this skillset, these trails are very straightforward. There are few to no rocky areas (with the exception of the upper limits of Cabin Mountain trail), minimal mud, and you'll [probably] have cell service. (Most providers have service; but your mileage may vary dependent upon your carrier.)

ACCESS: Access to these trails is very straightforward - drive to the end of A-Frame Road and you're set. There is ample space to turn trailers around (usually without having to back). Park at the edge of the graveled area to provide other users access and parking. I've seen as many as 6 rigs parked here with ample room for other public land users to still arrive and park. Much of A-Frame Road has wide berms that allow for easy trailer parking. 

The closest equestrian-friendly camping to CVNWR trails is over an hour away within the Seneca Creek backcountry and is discussed in that section below. 

MY HONEST, CANDID TAKE: My honest take on riding in CVNWR is that it showcases the stunning, unique landscape of this micro-region exceptionally well while providing riders with a variety of trails. It isn't heavily trafficked; I rarely see another user while riding, which is something I appreciate and enjoy. The only drawback is the bridges. If I were taking an out-of-state visitor on a ride to showcase the unique beauty my state has to offer, CVNWR would be at the top of my list. In fact, of all the areas available to ride, this was where I opted to take a friend from Austria when she visited a few years ago. Every time I ride these trails, I'm left speechless by my surroundings. It is such a gorgeous area to travel through on horseback.

SENECA CREEK BACKCOUNTRY

Trails in the Seneca Creek Backcountry are an ideal location for trail riding in West Virginia. Most of its trails are under the mature forest canopy, providing ample shade during the hottest time of the year. There are numerous streams and vernal ponds to provide plenty of water, and there are numerous open meadow areas for picnics and grazing. To top it off, the trails aren't nearly as technical as those in Dolly Sods. While some trails boast stretches of rock gardens, they aren't as relentless as those in the Sods and they lack the leg-breaking nooks and crannies common to the Sods. (Which makes them far more safe, in my humble opinion.) With a little planning to set a shuttle, you can also ride point-to-point from lower elevations to the summit of Spruce Knob, the highest point in West Virginia. That's a pretty cool thing to get to do on a horse!

TRAILS: As noted above, trails in this area are largely under canopy cover and vary from single track to wider logging roads. While open views aren't common, there are some open views scattered throughout this trail system. Additionally, many trails have random meadow openings that are striking to see. It's possible to do lollipop loops and point-to-point rides within this trail system. Very few of the trails are unsafe for horse passage. It's pretty remarkable to have a trail system that allows horses on all trails with only a few trails unsafe for horses!

Due to the vastness of this trail system, the condition of the trails can vary. Mostly due to downed trees. The USFS does a good job completing annual maintenance on almost all of the 60+ miles of trail, but one good storm can booger things. However, in almost all situations where trees may block the trail, it's usually possible to bypass them with a little good ol' fashioned bushwhacking. I always carry a hand saw and hand pruners.

The unsafe horse trails are highlighted above. With the exception of those highlighted areas, all trails provide safe passage for horses. The original map can be found HERE. 

***A special note about Swallow Rock trailhead: You will notice that the Swallow Rock trailhead, the closest trailhead to Johnny Meadows campsite/parking, is marked as unsafe in the map above. Safe equestrian access to Swallow Rock trail from Johnny Meadows is to take a left onto the road and follow it for approximately 0.3 miles. Before you cross the bridge and before the road gets wide for tent campsite parking, look to your right. You will see a large rock and a single track trail. Follow this and cross the stream. As you cross the stream you will see an obvious trail. Once you have crossed the river to this trail, it will meet up with the marked Swallow Rock trail after a hundred yards or so.

RECOMMENDED SKILLSETS: Horses riding in this area should be adept at crossing streams, climbing and descending ~1450' in elevation, and picking their way through rocky terrain. Riders should be comfortable with orienteering, be it with an app, hardcopy map, GPS, or combination of all three. You will not have cell service throughout this trail system, nor at parking areas. Prepare yourself accordingly for weather conditions and the length of time you plan to be gone. 

ACCESS: The best parking/access for this trail system is either from the Johnny Meadows equestrian/group campsite on CR 29 / Whitmer Road or from the parking at the summit of Spruce Knob. You can also pull trailers off on wide spots to park near the Seneca Creek Trail trailhead (which is near to the Lumberjack trailhead). 

The best - and only - horse camping in the region is close to this trail system. Johnny Meadows provides ample space for trailers, is close to the stream for water access, has a permanent high line for tying, and has some space for portable corral setup. It's right near the Swallow Rock trailhead, providing easy access in and out of camp to the trail system. It's a boondock setup without sewage or electric, but it's pretty lovely all the same. Please park and setup in a way that does not block the pull-through road for other users.

If boondocking is not your cup of tea, on the other side of the mountain (closer to the summit of Spruce Knob) is Wrangler Meadows horse campground. They have stalls, a bathhouse, and electric hook ups. They do offer shuttle service for riding (I'm uncertain of the extent of this), and you can ride from the camp to access Huckleberry trail. I will say though, the access trail to/from this campsite is a ton of elevation gain/loss and has a considerable number of cobble rocks that tumble about as you travel through. Passable and safe, but just a touch technical. Personally, I'd rather end my day on that trail than start it there!

MY HONEST, CANDID TAKE: The Seneca Creek backcountry has been my go-to for riding the past several years - showcased on this blog. I see fewer trail users, can enjoy more miles, and don't have to fuss with seriously technical trails. My horses like it, my dogs love it, and that makes me happy. I love having the option to do point-to-point rides or lollipop loops. If I have visiting equestrian friends who are accustomed to many miles in the saddle, I would absolutely prioritize taking them for a ride here over the other areas discussed in this post. This area is also where I have most recommended out-of-state folks to visit/camp in recent years. 

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I hope you've found the information above helpful. If you have any questions about riding or accessing these areas, let me know! I'm happy to assist and will update this guide as needed following any questions/discussion.