Day 6: Through the Lava Fields, Into Mordor

The final tale of my time riding in Iceland is here! This post wraps up the story of my time riding in Iceland. Thanks so much for those who have followed along with my story. I hope you've enjoyed it and found some beauty and inspiration along the way! I'll follow-up with one final post with links, general tips, tricks, and recommendations for traveling to Iceland in the coming days before transitioning blog content back to the usual ho-hum adventures in West Virginia. 

Rounding Up the Horses

This morning, like the others, started slowly. I wrote, enjoyed breakfast, prepped lunch, and readied myself before joining everyone in the shuttle for the hour drive to the day’s start/end point. Today’s weather promised to be much milder and the ride would be our final - and longest! - of the week at 30 kilometers.

The drive from Stori Kambur to the northern coast of the peninsula was uneventful. Once we arrived, Siggi asked for 6-7 volunteers to help gather the horses, cautioning that it’d take quite a bit of walking. The pasture they were in was something like 100 hectares, so gathering them up was going to be a bit of a task! I happily volunteered alongside others.

After five straight days of riding, the horses weren’t exactly thrilled with the prospect of being gathered up for another day’s ride. While I didn’t observe any of them flat out running away, they did Very Purposefully walk away from the gaggle of two legged beings trekking toward them across the open area. 

With Siggi’s guidance, we formed a straight line and followed the horses, pushing them to the farthest corner of the pasture where the fence narrowed and we could catch them. In writing, I make this sound simple, but the size of this pasture coupled with the grassy-boggy-hummocky ground made it much less simple in actuality! All in all, it took us an hour to capture and lead all of the horses back to the other riders and we walked 5 kilometers in that time! Warm up: achieved! 

As we slowly bridled all of the horses, I asked Siggi about the freezemark brands on several of them, curious if they were farm markings or part of a greater system of keeping track of individual horses. It turns out, both were true. As he and Lele bridled horses, he pointed out which brands were farm brands and which brand - which was only on one older gelding - was part of an older system that kept track of all horses. He also shared how all Icelandic horses are microchipped and a record of their life and achievements can be tracked online through their unique microchip code. Basically a life’s report card of each horse! I thought this was super cool because from what I’ve learned of many other breeds of horses, the systems are quite varied and often a complete mess. It can be so hard to learn about a horse’s history depending on their breed. I love that Icelandic horses don’t have that problem at all!

Each volunteer led 2-3 horses from the field to the point where everyone else was waiting. Once all humans and horses were present, each person sought out their horse and led them away to be tacked. I led in one of Siggi’s mounts for the day and ended up holding onto both Visa and this gelding through the tack up process. Siggi and I took turns holding the horses while the other tacked up.

Heading out to round up the horses

Horses walking away from us

Pushing the horses to the far corner

Reaching the end

Visa mean muggin'

Visa sweet muggin'

Visa and Siggi's mount - bit of a size difference!

The First Miles

In due time, all horses, riders, and hand horses were ready to go. Siggi mounted up, gestured us to follow, and we headed off at a strong tolt, just like the prior day. I giggled with glee, sharing my smile and amusement with Jan who was riding alongside me as we followed Siggi.

Initially, I’d thought I would settle myself and Visa mid-to-back of the line on this day for the sake of photos (the line of riders on the landscape lends a different perspective, as you saw on my photos from earlier days), but Visa quickly vetoed that idea. As she’d done toward the end of the ride on the prior day, she was magnetized toward Siggi and happiest locked in right behind him. It became a bit of a laughing point for me and others later in the day after various breaks when I’d not even pick up my reins, opting to cross my arms and let her choose. Every time she’d hustle to a spot behind Siggi in the lead much to the amusement of myself and others in our immediate vicinity. 

The day’s ride began much as the one the day prior had ended. We backtracked much of our prior day’s path through Siggi’s family’s land winding first along the river and then through the field of lupine. Our first stop of the day was where the final stop had been the day prior. However, after about 6 miles, once we reached the decommissioned highway, our path veered into a new direction - a road through lava fields.

Ran my GPS in two parts for this final day. 

Backtracking the prior day's path more or less

Happy folks!

The best drinker!

I loved Lele's sweater on this day! I'm quite motivated to finally learn to knit a sweater after this trip. I've knitted since I was a teenager, but never desired to pursue a sweater because of the time it takes. Now though, I think I'd like to try my hand at it after seeing so many beautiful ones in Iceland.

Plotting my Future

As we traveled along the first 6 mile segment, Siggi and I chatted about my job, differences in land conservation approaches between our countries, the amazing versatility of the Icelandic horse, and all things Icelandic horses. I shared with him that these animals had been a curiosity of mine with regard to a breed I’d make my own one day, and now having experienced them the way I did on this trip I was bound and determined to make one my own one day. 

What I love to do most - move at speed down a trail and travel across rough terrain without having to look at my own feet thanks to the surefootedness of my mount - these horses do better than any I’ve ever ridden. And they do it with a calmer demeanor to boot! The tolt especially feels more adapted for rough terrain than a trot.

Siggi noted that if I’m really serious about an Icelandic horse, that I should import one from Iceland. Getting a horse that was raised and started in Iceland would guarantee a very surefooted animal. He also shared that when I’m ready, he’d be happy to be my broker and help me find the perfect horse. He said that I could give him my list of desired qualities and he’d find a few candidates, and then I could come for a few days and try them all out. 

I thanked him and told him I would absolutely be in touch. However, it probably wouldn’t be for at least five years. At that time, Grif will be 20, Q will be ~24, and Stan will be 29. I know I’ll want to have a new solid riding horse by the time Grif is 25. I feel fairly certain the horses that will carry me into my later years will be a Welsh cob and an Icelandic; the order of their appearance in my life is TBD. 

Berserkers & Riding into Mordor

As our conversation about future options to bring home an Icelandic horse came to a natural pause point, we reached the place where we’d take our second break of the day near the beginning of the road through the lava field. I took advantage of the break to catch up with Kate for a bit (her horse preferred the back of the pack while Visa preferred the front). She asked if I was getting lots of fun history from Siggi, and I let her know that no, not really, we’d just been nerding out on Icelandic horses. 

At the end of the break, we set off at a smart tolt, occasionally accelerating into a hand gallop as we winded along the road through the lava fields. 

What a *wild* landscape, y’all! I seriously felt like I was on another planet. It was unlike anything I’ve ever seen before. The only thing I could compare it to is Tolkien’s Middle Earth in the area approaching Mordor. I voiced this aloud to Siggi as we rode, “Siggi, I feel like I’m riding into Mordor!” Siggi turned in his saddle with a big grin, “Did you know Tolkien was influenced heavily by Iceland when he wrote Lord of the Rings?” I shook my head no. Siggi continued, “Tolkien never visited Iceland, but he had a nanny who was from here and told a lot of stories about the country and it’s folklore. The hobbit homes were inspired from some of the early settler’s homes here!” My eyes grew bigger and my smile widened as he shared - what a COOL thing I never knew!

Look at this wild landscape!

The brand on the far hand horse is the old style that marked individual horses. Told what year he was born (2001, I believe), where, and what number he was.

Not long after this anecdote, Siggi shared a story about the first road built through this lava field, Berserkjahraun. The road, the remnants of which we could see on and off throughout the ride, was the first road that connected farms in the area. It was built by a Viking berserker who fell in love with a beautiful young woman who was the daughter of a local farmer. Well, that local farmer didn’t want his daughter to marry a Viking berserker so he gave the berserker a seemingly impossible task to win his daughter’s hand. The task? Build a road through the lava field. Well, the berserker moved stones and made an easily crossable path through the lava field, working day and night for many months until he was successful. When the berserker went to claim his prize, the daughter’s hand in marriage, the farmer and his friends ambushed the berserker and killed him. 

Ouch. 

As this tale came to a close, I concluded that men from Iceland’s past were tragically romantic and went to wild ends to win over the women they loved only to get shafted. You see, Siggi had told an equally tragic tale of love the night prior to Kate and I about a man who loved a woman and was ultimately forced to choose exile or death instead of life with the woman he loved. He chose exile (and very well may have beaten Leif Erikson to North America based on records that exist, however, the history isn’t thorough enough for us to know for sure). 

We carried on through the lava fields, zooming along at a tolt and canter. It was SO fun. Coupled with the wild landscape, it was definitely another core memory in the making. 

Another world!

Approaching the place we'd stop for lunch. A farm used to be down in this area

A Break and One Final Gallop

When we reached a spot of open grassland along a stream nestled against the wild stones that made up the lava field, we paused to take a saddles-off lunch break. I took Visa straight to the stream to tank up on water before untacking her. The little mare had been working hard and I knew how much she was capable of drinking based on prior days, so I opted to let her drink before losing her saddle. I know when I’m hot from a workout I usually reach for water before anything else! And sure enough, she drank long and deep from that stream!

Once Visa drank her fill, I walked her to the grassy area with the others, untacked her, and let her graze while I enjoyed my sandwich (she got her daily PB treat, too). 

Gorgeous landscape

I'm so glad I took the time to get photos with this little girl

Just two redheads looking off toward Mordor

Note the brand on Svartur Svanur here, this is a farm brand vs. the brand on the gelding in the prior photo.

Thanks to Lola for helping cue up this photo of Kate and I. It's one of my favorites of the trip!

Following the break, we sped along the lava field road for several more miles. The surreal landscape continued all the while. 

Eventually, we reached an uphill section that was wide with amazing footing and Siggi let his horse rip into a gallop. Jan was alongside him. Something unspoken passed between them and the next thing I knew, Jan loosed his horse into the lead while Siggi held his mount to a slower gallop. Fractions of a second later, Kristín roared past me on her horse, passed Siggi, and quickly caught up to Jan, their horses matching stride as they galloped alongside one another. I quickly urged Visa to follow. 

As Visa powered after Kristín and Jan, I let a whoop of excitement out, dropped my reins and spread my arms wide as Visa galloped beneath me. What a feeling! What a moment! The horses and this place!

We carried on for a time, others surging up behind us, grins huge on everyone’s faces. Eventually, we pulled the horses up, patting them our thanks as they blew heavy and caught their breath. 

Not long after this, we came to the end of the road through the lava field. We paused here for our penultimate break of the day to give the horses a few moments without riders. Siggi pointed out a mountain across the road and shared with us that if you climbed that mountain all the way to the top without ever looking behind you, you’d be granted three wishes at the top - so long as those wishes were kind and not mean-hearted. 

Looking across the land where farms once stood.

So peaceful

And back into the lava fields

Leaving the lava fields

The Final Miles & Turning the Horses Out 

The final 6 miles of the ride followed along paved and gravel roads. They passed quickly enough and were relatively uneventful. We made one short pause along a stream to let the horses have one last drink before pressing onward for the final miles back to the pasture.

When we reached the pasture, we made quick work of untacking the horses and turning them out. It was a pretty big moment for these animals, though I don’t know that they knew it. As the final week-long tour of the season for Stori Kambur, when we turned the horses out on this night, it marked the beginning of their vacation. They’d be out to pasture in this field until late October when they would be moved to winter pastures. 

While untacking Visa, I gave her her final little PB treat and then led her to pasture. She didn’t linger alongside me this evening. She happily accepted her freedom, taking a moment to scratch her face and shake before meandering away. “Bye, little girl,” I said to her, “Thank you for an incredible few days. Enjoy your vacation.”

A couple more photos with my girl

One final drink!

Siggi enjoying a quiet moment doting on his gelding

The final stretch. I could definitely feel that Visa was tired by this point!

The Final Evening, Northern Lights, and an Invitation

We loaded up the saddles and bridles, then loaded ourselves into the shuttle to head back to Stori Kambur for one final evening together.

Dinner this night was leg of lamb with many sides. It was a perfect way to cap off an incredible week.

Following dinner, we enjoyed more music, singing, and drinking together. The aurora, while faint, even made an appearance! The cherry on top to a perfect week.

During conversations with Siggi and Jan, I extended an invitation to visit West Virginia. Jan expressed interest in experiencing deer hunting season and Siggi hoped to meet and network with horse folks with the goal of eventually selling a few horses a year to folks in the States; both were interested in seeing West Virginia, ideally from horseback. To you both, and anyone else from this trip who has an interest, I want you to know that my offer to visit stands and is genuine. I would love to show you the place I call home. I can’t promise 120+ kilometers of riding, but we can certainly tackle a good many miles and see some incredible places.

What a spread!

Northern lights as captured on my DSLR. I could have sat outside fussing with settings to improve it, but the companionship and time spent with people inside was more interesting to me on this night. 

Cell phone capture

Cell phone capture

Siggi doling out homemade liquor - Icelandic burning wine - from his wedding a few week's prior that was leftover.

These little bottles would be my demise on this night lol! I hadn't drank that much liquor in years and years and years. My hangover the next morning was the worst I've had since 2018. 

Regaling us with Icelandic songs

Learning and singing Icelandic songs together with folks from five different countries

One Final Reflection

As the week ended, I felt a deep mix of contentment and wonder. This trip was everything I’d hoped it would be and more - a week of breathtaking scenery, sturdy little horses with enormous hearts, and people who welcomed us like family. Each day brought something new to marvel at, and by the end, I felt both exhausted and completely alive.

I’ll be thinking about this week for a long time - the sound of hoofbeats over lava rock, the dramatic sun rays dancing over an even more dramatic landscape, and the stories and laughter shared over meals after long days in the saddle. There’s something about Iceland that sinks quietly into your bones and stays there. I came here chasing an experience, but I’m leaving with a piece of this place tucked firmly in my heart.

More than anything, I’m grateful. I’m grateful to Siggi and his team for sharing their land and horses, to Visa for carrying me so faithfully, and to this incredible country for reminding me how small I am in the best possible way. What a gift this week was.